Plan B - The Art House

 We bought a house-!

In the south of France. 

Bize-Minervois. 

- In retrospect, that went fast.

Last year, sitting on the aft deck of Maggie May - month after month, watching the world deal with covid, it was clear that travel - as a sort of lifestyle - was becoming less desirable. 

We began to consider houses. 

All over the world, in fact. 

From Hawaii and Oregon to Laos and Thailand. 

Back to New Mexico. Various Caribbean islands. 

An old château. An olive farm. 500 year old stone houses. 

Beach houses. Glass houses. Tree houses. 

Eventually, we realized - we like it here. 

The boat is here. We have friends here. 

Why not - here? 

So I made a little book. (I'm always making books-)

I wanted to identify exactly which elements were important to us. 

Which were "needs" and which were "wants". I was very specific. 

As usual, I had a list. 

It took a LOT of searching - mostly online. 

We almost gave up a few times. 

But - it happened-!

Here's what it looks like: 

Even online, we fell in love with it. 

It's easy. Simple. A bit quirky. 

Unusual, but still - kinda French.

Just big enough. 

But - there's space for a music studio for Stan - and an art studio for me. 

Of course, compared to Maggie May, it's quite large. 

It's about 20 minutes from the boat. 

(Oddly, the boat has MUCH better storage! There are NO closets in this house.)

We're still in the south of France, between the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees. 

The area is beautiful. 

Full of flowers and birds and markets.

Good food, good friends and wines. 

We're on the edge of the village, just below a pine forest.

Bize is a great little village - we'd stayed here once before with the kids in 2014.

A river runs through the village. 

The atmosphere is completely different from the Canal du Midi. 

After signing the documents in December, we had to wait 3 MONTHS to get the keys. 

We had NO furniture. No dishes, towels, linens, tools, containers. 

No house stuff. Nada. 

Starting again from scratch.

In March, we went into lockdown for the third time. 

About the same time we got the keys to the house. 

So glad we decided to get the house!

Stores were closed, but we could order things and have them delivered.

So - first thing we did was - put in a pool. 

Yikes! What a project. In May.

Cranes and tractors and what a mess. 

But - they started on Monday. By Friday - we had water in the pool. 

Okay, it's not really finished. 

They're all booked up over summer, and will come back in autumn to make it look pretty. 

Lay the stone surround. Finish the wall. 

However, it's fully functional, if not super attractive yet. 

It works. - And on hot days, man, it's great. 

In the last few years, there were some VERY HOT days on the boat. 

We DREAMED of - jumping into a pool.

Now we have one.

We're also gardening. 

That was the main thing we missed on the boat during the confinement. 

Not TV. Or a freezer. Not being on the grid. It was - puttering in a garden.

(Ice cubes came a close second.)

 The soil here is absolute clay. 

Terrible stuff and full of rocks! 

(How do they grow anything here?) 

But - plants seem to thrive.

We even planted tomatoes in May. 

By June, we were harvesting them!

Stan - looking for loquats...tomatoes in front.

Plus, in our garden, we have olive trees.

A plum tree.

An apple tree.
A loquat tree. 

Blackberries.

Figs.

Even banana plants.

And a "strawberry tree".

These are loquats. Who knew?

And a cat - who seems to think he (she?) belongs here.

So - it looks like Plan B is working out just fine. 

It usually does. 

Again - we got lucky. 

"Won't you stay - we'll put on a day? 

And we'll talk in present tenses..."

- Joni Mitchell

World Wandering - Time for Plan B

HOME - right now - is a boat on a canal in the south of France. 

Maggie May.

25 tons. 15 meters long. Just over 4 meters wide. 

3 cabins, 3 bathrooms. Generous galley. 

Bright, light. Beautiful woodwork. Comfortable. 

An aft deck that has been home to many good evenings with friends. 

Boat Gang evening!

But - she really wasn't supposed to be a full-time residence. 

In New Mexico, we lived in a wonderful old "adobe hacienda" for 20 years. 

It was over a hundred years old. 

In 2018, we sold it. 

Sold or gave away everything inside: 

Antiques from the 1700s, treasures gathered from around the world, old Spanish hand-carved furniture, hand-knotted rugs, art, silver, first-edition books, original paintings, carvings, crystal glassware, pre-Columbian pottery, art guitars, tools, garden sculptures, bicycles, cars, motorcycles - everything. 

We even gave the cat to the neighbors. (I think she was relieved.)

The goal was - Simplicity. Flexibility. 

To be able to take off. 

Hit the road when the mood strikes. 

Travel the world.

Anywhere. 

I had this idea of living a "one-key" life. 

We did it! 

One boat key. 

That's it.

The idea was - a "lock up and leave" base in Europe. 

 No yard. No utilities. No property taxes.

Few obligations. Few responsibilities. 

We talked about  getting down to a "passport and a credit card".

That was the ideal. 

(Okay, that's a bit extreme, but - you get the idea.) 

We wanted the freedom to move easily.

Son Mikey's "Itchy Feet" comic

I love to travel.  

It keeps life exciting - solving puzzles.

Figuring out where to buy food. Where to stay. 

How to get around. 

Or even where to take out the trash. 

Mysteries of trying to speak the language.

Connecting with people who don't think like I do.

It's a challenge.

Each episode is a small adventure in feeling fully alive. 

Cow intestines, Stan?

So now - Maggie May is our base in Europe. 

Just as planned. 

So far, so good.

In one of China's many HUGE cities.

Then - along came a virus. 

Suddenly, travel stopped completely. 

We went into lockdown in France in March. 

Documentation was required to leave the boat.

Borders closed. 

Even regional travel not allowed. 

Plan A - totally derailed. 

Hm.

Yes, things opened up over summer. 

But ah, the cost of being too social! 

 Boat Gang - and our favorite local wine distributor! 

Now France is back in lockdown again. 

Along with a half dozen other European countries. 

It doesn't feel like this will be the last time, either.  

It's not over. 

I'm glad to have made the most of travel while it was possible!
- to maybe - over a hundred countries. 

You never know what the future will bring.

No guarantees. 

But - the world is changing.

Travel has become more complicated.

Less appealing.

It looks like - it's time for Plan B. 

I have no idea what that looks like. 

It's an interesting situation to be in.

(We're already very fortunate with our situation - compared to many.)

But - what did I say about wanting to stay flexible?

So - we'll see. 

Who knows? A change may be just around the corner....

Meanwhile, it's a beautiful November in the south of France.

Even if it's VERY quiet out there.

Down to Toothbrush and a Credit Card: USA to Europe without Flying

No Airplanes, Please - 

New Mexico to the South of France

by Train and Ship

We just crossed over the Missouri River. 

On a train. 

We have a small sleeper compartment.
Private bathroom. 

Stan's playing guitar.

Stan's happy - there's a self-serve coffee stand at the end of our coach. 

All meals are included on the 28 hour train trip from Albuquerque to Chicago. 

Salmon, fillet steak, NY cheesecake. 

A small bottle of merlot. 

The attendant brings tea to our compartment between meals. 

Makes up the beds.

Nice.

We weren't necessarily being "carbon conscious" by not flying.
I had retina surgery. Wasn't allowed to fly.

Okay, I thought - fine.
There has to be another way to get to France.
And - there is.

A pretty cool way, too.

Booked an Amtrak train from Albuquerque to Chicago.
Overnight.
Another one from Chicago to New York.
Also overnight. 

Then, the Queen Mary.
New York to Southhampton in England.

It takes a week.

From there, Eurostar train London to Paris.
Under the English Channel.

And on by train to Béziers and "Maggie May".

The entire transit took about 3 weeks.
No jet lag.
Arrived relaxed and rested.

Even got to see a show in London on the way.

But back to the trip:

New Mexico is beautiful from the train.
Mountains. Mesas. Huge skies.

(Did you know - the Santa Fe Railway never went to Santa Fe. 

The terrain was too tough. So it stopped in nearby Lamy.)

Lamy, NM.

Across Kansas.
Missouri.

Crossing a small corner of Iowa.
Into Illinois.

Fields and farms and quiet towns. 

Over the Mississippi River.

Lots of water up here.
Still snow in some places!

Looks like it was a wet and wild winter in the Midwest.

Motorcycles are great. Still, I don't envy him, as I enjoy a glass of wine on the train.

Finally - the train pulls into Chicago.

Clean, cool architecture.

Museums, clubs, shows, parks. 

Friendly folks.

And a killer location right on the lake. 

One of the better world-class cities. 

A bit unsung.

During the previous 5 months, we sold our house in New Mexico. 

And a rental house or two.

Sold the cars.
16 bicycles. 6 motorized bicycles. 
Furniture. Antiques from the 1700's.

Gave away art materials, original art.

Tons of tools.
Carloads of books.

About 40 guitars. 
Dozens of handmade rugs.

Clothes, linens, kitchenware, dishes, baskets, statues, silver, coins, collections, quilts, jewelry.

Yearbooks, photos, slides, projectors, albums, projects, awards, trophies, paintings.

-Untold  treasures.

Even gave the cat to the neighbor.
(Cat is probably happier now)

The goal was to get rid of everything. 

Aiming toward a "toothbrush and a credit card" life.

Lightening the load a bit.

Not just downsizing. Everything. Gone.

After that job, (and it was HARD!) this long slow trip was welcome.

From Chicago, another train.

The Lake Shore Limited. 

Sleeper compartment to New York.

Along the edges of Lake Michigan and Lake Erie.

Past Buffalo, where my Dad was born in 1910. 

The Queen Mary II is our next step.
For the transatlantic portion of our trip back to France.

Always wanted to take the Queen Mary.

It's not a cruise ship, it's an ocean liner.

Transport, rather than entertainment. 

Between New York and Southhampton, UK.

And: It IS beautiful.
Luxurious.
Spacious.
Elegant.

Our stateroom has loads of space.

Even a fridge.
An electric kettle. 

A private balcony.

A king bed.
A comfortable sitting area. 

With a complimentary bottle of champagne.

Turn down service.
With chocolates.

Evenings are quite formal - most men in tuxedos, most women in sparkly dresses. 

Lots of ballroom dancing.
Live music in the evenings.

Shows. Speakers.

A planetarium.

You can go to the buffet or the pub if you want to stay casual.
Otherwise, evening attire is expected.

The ship's library is the largest afloat - it's impressive. 

Stan is still happy.
He's got his guitar and a view.

And coffee.

(I thought this might be some sort of modern art sculpture. 

Turns out it's a spare propeller blade. Yikes.)

I love just watching the ocean slide by.
No responsibilities.

Being amazed that there is NOTHING around us.
In any direction.
Just water.

(Ok, maybe an iceberg or two up by Labrador.)

And we have so little idea of what is UNDER the water out here.

After 7 nights' crossing, London-! 

We find last minute tickets to a West End show.
Go out for a fancy dinner after.

TGV (the Train of Great Speed) from London to Paris. 

The Eurostar.
Upstairs.
Quiet.

Under the English Channel.
Fast. 

Change stations in Paris. 

Passing over the Seine.

Through the fields and villages of France .

Way down to the south.

To Béziers overnight, before returning to the boat.

Then - finally, after a trip that took us 3 weeks:

It's time to open the champagne.

On the aft deck of Maggie May.