Cambodia - Frogs on a Stick and Crocodiles

The buildings across the street from our "penthouse".

In Siem Reap, I saw a hostel advertising its "penthouse".

Complete with private swimming pool.
Private roof terrace.

After 2 months' of traveling, this sounded pretty good.
 I jumped at it. 

The price: $28. a night.

Everything our "penthouse" claimed was certainly true.
But - it was still pretty rough. 

Not exactly 5 star!

Oh well. 

The view was fun.

Fish is king in Cambodia.
It all comes from the Mekong. 

And - when the river floods, it fertilizes the fields of rice.

Handy system - rice and fish. 

It keeps Cambodia alive.

Well - except for the occasional "frog on a stick" snack.

Okay, and maybe toasted snakes and scorpions on sticks? 

(And yes, those ARE tarantulas, too.)

But - most of the time, it's fish.

Fish and crab market in Kep.

And - always - plenty of rice.

Back to the Mekong:

Everyone is curious about us.

Kids think we're very funny, especially Stan. 

And he encourages it, by making funny faces and joking around.

It's been a tough year on the Mekong, with drought. 

And now, China is building dams upstream. 

The river is low. 

Water hyacinths clog it.

Kids wait to push boats that get stuck in the  mud - ours included - for a small tip.

It's slow going.

Buying snacks in a floating shop.

Here's what our "parking" space looks like - everyone coming to market.

A lot of homes are in and on the water.

The whole family, and family business. Working together. 

Then - a mystery: 

We kept seeing these wooden pens.

Usually right up against the houses.

All different sizes.

Sometimes they'd SHAKE violently! 

What in the world - ?

Turns out, they raise CROCODILES in those cages.

Right up by the houses. 

Right where they wash their clothes and where the kids swim.

They grow them.
Then sell them to the Chinese.

I'm sure a croc or two escapes now and again.
I can't even THINK about it!

Yikes.

And of course, all the young Cambodians want to move away from the river life. 

To the big city.
And get a motorcycle.

They can buy new ones from China for about $300.
With financing.

We always seemed to wind up in Siem Reap again.

Mekong sunset. 

Probably not particularly romantic for those fishermen. 

They do this every day.

But - for us - it looks pretty incredible.

Here are some of the drawings and paintings I made along the way.

Gili Air - Mushrooms and Monitor Lizards

This is the first time I've worried about getting a sunburn IN the shower. 

In our rented cabin. It's a definite risk.

We're in Gili Air. 

East of Bali, off the coast of Lombok.

It’s gorgeous. Total tropical paradise.

Not many people here. 

So we rented bikes - $2 a day - in Yahuuut.

 (yes, 3 u’s!  I wonder - what is the story on THAT?) 

Needed bikes to explore the island and find some place to stay. 

Came across Island View Bungalows on the quiet windward side of the island.

Bungalows - lovely gardens - privacy. Little wooden shelters on the beach to drink beer.

Watch the sun set. 

A sleepy bar, and a bevy of young men from Lombok.

They couldn’t be more helpful or friendly. 

Breakfast comes with the room. Served anywhere we like. 

On our balcony, at the beach, in the bar -

The "main road" goes through Island View Bungalows. 

In the first 5 minutes, I see a LARGE lizard, maybe 4-5 feet long, with a long forked tongue. 

Not at ALL like an iguana. 

It was crawling through the garden near our bungalow. 

My first Komodo-style dragon! 

Although I think it’s a monitor lizard. 

Which I guess a Komodo dragon is, too. 

It slid under one of the bungalows. -Glad it's not ours.

Our bungalow. A/C. Hammock on the balcony. On the beach. $42.

There are no cars on the island, so no need for roads. 

No cars, no motorcycles, no dogs. 

This is the main road. 

"Downtown" Gili Air.

There are tracks - and trails - for bicycles and horse carts. 

Even our scuba equipment is transferred by horse cart.

We got on our bikes and explored the island. It isn’t big. 

It's only about 2 hours’ walk in total circumference. 

It’s gorgeous, almost empty, not expensive. 

I think it might be rainy season.

There is a mosque and a school in the middle, and about 3-4 villages. 

They’re simple places. Everyone says hello. 

Women wear scarves or more. It’s a Moslem island. 

The tourists - mostly young backpackers - are on the edges, at the beaches. 

The locals all live in the interior, in the villages. 

Not a bad system. 

Gili Air is one of 3 tiny Indonesian islands. 

Gili means "small island".

We took a ferry from Padang Bai in Bali to get here. 

At some point, I got a call from Kilian - “Are you ok?”
I had no idea there’d been a 7.8 earthquake off the coast of Sumatra.

That's pretty big.

(Don't even THINK about tsunamis-!)

No sign of any earthquake here...

I told him we'd been invited to a "trance" party on the beach tonight by a gang of young travelers. Most of the visitors to Gili Air are young backpackers. It's firmly on the "Banana Pancake Trail". Complete with mushroom shakes and all that. 

(Magic mushrooms grow wild here. They even put them on pizzas.) 

Tonight - or early tomorrow am - is apparently a full solar eclipse. 

However - we decline - a cold shower and a glass of wine in our air-conditioned room just sounds SO much more appealing! We'll get up early to see the eclipse.

So here we are tonight. Under the mosquito net, which gives it all a privacy and intimacy that’s kinda cool. Inside the net: My Kindle, phone, and computer - and an almost empty glass of Bintang beer. 

Most visitors pass through the Gilis quickly. Since we're here longer than most, we get to know the fellows working here. They're mostly from Lombok - (I remember an older man we stayed with in Malaysia complaining about those charming boys from Lombok who come over and steal the hearts of their daughters in Malaysia-! He was quite serious.) 

One night, the lads caught a large tuna, and asked whether we wanted it to share it - grilled or sushi. We got both. With a Bintang beer. On the beach. With a view of Gili Meno in front of us.

UNDERWATER:

The diving and snorkeling here in Indonesia is impressive. 

(and I grew up in the Caribbean!) 

The dive instructors are often young Australians. 

Full of energy, very professional. The gear is usually good. 

The undersea wildlife is amazing. 

Plus, the wooden boats are just - fun. 

Today - Stan did a refresher course, since he hasn't been diving since Roatan. 

Diving:   490,000 rupiah (just under $40), including dives, boat, equipment, wetsuit. 

Can’t complain. 

The boats - including dive boats - are often handcrafted outriggers.

FOOD:

The food in Indonesia so far has been good: Nasi Goreng, Mei Goreng, Gado-Gado. 
Spices and noodles and rice and chilies. 
Not a lot of choices, but it’s filling and good.

 Most restaurants on the island are about the same, pretty simple but lovely, little bamboo platforms out on the beach. 

Tonight, had gin and tonics and Greek salad and spring rolls and satay - what international fare! 

Dinner main course is about 35,000 for something Indonesian (less than $3) and up - for fancy stuff. Wine is very pricey here - we’re trying to stick to beer. But the local beer is good.

THE PLAN:

 It's month 4 of our SE Asian trip. 

We've been playing it by ear for the last 3 months. 

At times, this feels like the BEST possible way to live! Always something new. 

Constantly learning - exploring - being challenged by the unknown. 

Finding unexpected corners of paradise, like Gili. 

It takes time to figure out where to go next and how to get there. Especially in this part of the world, where we really don't know our way around. We don't know what's possible. 

Also, Indonesia is HUGE. 

Good-bye to all our Island View friends...

So we're off to Flores. 

It's only the next island but one. 

You'd think it would be easy! But - it's not.

By boat it would take 3-4 days, sleeping on the deck. 

That's not for us. 

We start with a horse cart to the ferry port at 7 am.

 Found a seat on the public ferry, after having to climb aboard through the water. 

Thinking about a ferry crossing on a public boat, I was a bit apprehensive, after the regular reports of overloaded Indonesian ferries capsizing in rough waters and people drowning. 

But Lombok isn’t far, and it turned out the ferry wasn’t half as crowded as the one yesterday. 

Not as rough as I’d feared, either.

There were a couple of other travelers on board, but for the most part, all local. 

Women in headscarves, workers going home on their day off. 

The fare was 12,000 rupiah to Lombok. About 85 cents. 

We were met at the Lombok port by someone who handed us off to someone else who handed us off to a driver who took us to the airport at Bandera. (Can't believe that worked.)

 'Taxi' stop in Lombok. Stan's pants wet from getting off the ferry.

About 1.5 hours' drive or so through the mountains. 

Our plane was delayed, so no rush. Our connecting plane in Bali was also delayed. (we have to fly back to Bali in order to fly east to Flores.) Both planes are prop planes, about 80 passengers, almost all locals. 

The further east we get into Indonesia, the less I know about it. 

I have NO idea what tomorrow will look like.

That's fine by me.

Life is good. 

Living in Luang Prabang & Weighing the Laundry

A few years back, we took a wooden boat to Luang Prabang.

I didn't know what to expect from Laos, but probably not this:

The beautiful and mighty Mekong. 

From the Thai border town of Chiang Khong, there was no road. 

It took two full days on the Mekong River to get to Luang Prabang. 

Our boat was owned by the family who lived aboard it. 

There were 6 passengers, plus the family.

The kids on the boat and I used my colored pencils to draw. Mostly monsters. 

The boat was spacious enough to wander around. Seats were car seats.

The family cooked for us on the boat.
We enjoyed the scenery and the intimidating power of the river.

At night, we stayed in the dusty riverside town of Pak Beng.

Halfway point.

I have great memories of a late night in "Only Bar" in Pak Beng. 

(That was the name. And it was.) 

The bar owner started us with a complimentary shot of local banana liquor...

There was no electricity. 

The generator was turned off when we left. 

How we ever found our guesthouse after that evening - in the dark - is beyond me.

Back to Luang Prabang: 

Perhaps arriving by boat began the magic. 

We climbed up the steps from the river to find a graceful town. 

Stan and I agreed that we could easily spend longer here.

It's cooler. Peaceful.

Luang Prabang, nestled in a crook between the Mekong River and the Nam Khan.

It hasn't changed too much in the past few years.

They say that the original explorers of a hundred years ago would recognize it.

Toasted coconut meringue on bamboo leaves. Night market treat.

Rivers, palm trees, surrounding mountains.

Orchids grow from walls.
Epiphytes hang from trees.

The streets are clean, and folks are friendly.

The buildings are mostly wooden, and have an appealing amount of wabi-sabi crookedness to them.

Aside from one really annoying cat, it's pretty much heaven.

Tortilla sort of things drying in the sun.

A few dozen colorful temples and monasteries. 

Each one is different.

I've drawn a few, but can't remember the names - 

Wat Souvannapourmaram. 

Wat Choumkhong Surin Tharam. 

Wat Xiangmouane Vajiramangalaram. 

Who knows which Wat is what. 

(Sorry, couldn't resist.)

Monks in photogenic orange robes glide through the town's narrow passageways. 

Cross bridges handmade of bamboo. 

(The bamboo bridges have to be rebuilt each year after the rains.)

The French influence left good bakeries - croissants! - baguettes! - and small restaurants.

We've even found a few bottles of good wine.

Waiting for (good!) cappuccini at the French bakery.

There is a large fresh market.

Plenty of excellent food stalls.

A large Night Market. 

Fabrics from the hill tribes. 

Art. Handicrafts. 

Desserts.

Eating at the Night Market

Quite a few of the ingredients are exotic. 

At least - for us.

Everything is fresh. Some things are still wiggling.

Mekong River catfish. Eels. Chickens. Tadpole tamales.

Street stalls provide delicious fresh squeezed smoothies. 

Avocado, lime, and mint? 

Mango, apple and dragonfruit? 

They'll make sandwiches for you to take on a bicycle picnic. 

Everything can be made to go. 

(Bicycles are for rent - $2 a day. 

They didn't even take our names down. 

Or asked where we were staying. 

Just gave us the bikes and waved.)

The food is excellent - even the local delicacy known as river seaweed.

Kind of like crunchy and spicy nori chips. 

The pace is slow.

We've been here for about three weeks. 

We've taken a few forays up to smaller towns up and down various Laotian rivers in wooden boats.

Our home in Nong Khiaw, one of our forays. Right on the river.

Here in Luang Prabang, we found another small teak guesthouse with a lovely balcony to call home. 

The phrase "happy as clams" comes to mind. 

(No, I don't know much about clams. But they probably have some for sale at the market.)

I've been pretty useless in keeping up this blog. 

I don't know how much I like working on a computer while I could be out soaking up mysteries and just enjoying the environment.

So much happens! 

So many stories! 

Such weird tales and great experiences!

This Khmu woman demonstrated by dancing how tipsy we could get if we drank the palm wine from her tiny mugs. 

And: I get so very far behind! 

How will I ever catch up?

We've been traveling in Southeast Asia since mid November. 

It's now mid February.

A lot has happened! 

However, I realize most people (including family) have NO idea where we are.

So - here's a brief summary - and a map.

(Drew this map on the last trip, Singapore to Hanoi.)

This time, we started with a month in Myanmar (Burma).

Incredibly long U Bein teak bridge, all handmade. This is one small section.

Traveled around Myanmar (Burma) as much as our 28-day visas allowed.

Bus, train, boat, plane, tuk-tuk, horsecart, motorcycle, bicycle. 

It's a big country. And very cool.

Main train station. Hsipaw, Myanmar.

We also spent a month in Thailand.

Two weeks renting a lovely traditional teak house in the south.

Erik visited from Bangkok. 

We explored caves, markets and temples.

...and two weeks in a spiffy high rise apartment.

28th floor in Bangkok. 

Near Erik's place. 

Wonderful.

View from our Bangkok apt.

2 BR, 2 bath, balcony and awesome view. 

In between, another two weeks sailing around the Myeik Archipelago. (Mergui)

Those are the little islands north of Phuket on the map, between Myanmar and Thailand. 

Mamma mia! How beautiful.

One of the coolest places - ever. 

With sea gypsies...

The Zoe III, our home in Myeik.

Then: two weeks traveling around Cambodia, including rivers, cities and Angkor Wat.

Ancient ruins and trees taking over - Cambodia.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat.

Now, we're in Luang Prabang, in Laos. 

We'll be here most of February.

Each of the places we've visited has so many good tales!

Ones that are not in the blog. And may never be.

Village street in Laos - north of Luang Prabang.

But yes, I am keeping a detailed journal.

I have 3 so far.

And I'm drawing. 

Not as much as I'd like, but - still. 

Little sketches in the journals.

Weighing the laundry: 1 kilo costs about $1.00.

One of MANY journal pages. 

We're taking lots of photos. 

(Thousands. I intend to draw at least most of them, someday!) *sigh*

And: We're having a helluva good time. 

I can hardly believe our good fortune.

So maybe I'll work on the blog more after I return home.

Priorities.

View of the Nam Khan River.

-Maybe.

Relive the experiences. 

Organize the stories.

So this is a bit of an apology.

Sunset Bungalow, Beer Lao. Trying to blog.

The bottom line is: 

I'm just having too much fun to mess with tech matters and computers.

Mea culpa.

-It might be time for another Beer Lao.