21 March 2015

Dominica, the Nature Island

Not a soul in sight. Waves and birds the only sounds. 
Yet its full Friday morning. Okay, the sound of a dinghy.

Tidy little wooden cottage at the edge of the rainforest. The ocean just steps in front of me. Rain pounding onto the metal roof, sea flat and indigo. A 600 year old tree beside the cottage. Thats before Columbus ever set eyes on the Americas.

The night guard brings us a bag of fruit from the gardens. His smile is wide and shy.
A rasta type guy on the road boldly tells us, Welcome to Dominica! 
Everyone is so proud of their island.

The roads struggle to cross the steep mountains.
And these are mountains to be reckoned with. Men repairing large potholes wave. Ok, Mami! they call as we pass. In places, the track is barely wide enough for our little car.

But the scenery! Deep vales of huge tropical plants and massive walls of ferns and bamboo! Bananas, papayas, breadfruit, all growing wild along the side of the road. 

Bougainvillea, hibiscus, plumeria and a dozen others reach for the sky. The wealthy havent claimed the oceanfront in Dominica as they have elsewhere. Here, some of the most spectacular views are fronted by an old wooden cabin or two. Or nothing. A few curious goats.


Incredible pristine beauty. And not a soul around.


There simply arent many visitors to Dominica. We have the coastline and rivers to ourselves, shared with a crab or a funny little agouti. Maybe a curious iguana.


Found these all in the same garden.

Deep in the rain forest, we find another tiny wooden cottage to rent.
Outdoor shower, hammock, balcony. Everything just perfect. The owners are young and French. I can smell dinner. They bake their own bread. Make their own pâté. Use the local ingredients to design incredible meals.


Even a fresh grapefruit meringue pie. Grapefruit meringue!

Our 2-wheel drive car wouldnt make it up here. The road is daunting. The gardener said we could park it at his fathers house, down the road, so we did. Then all of us walked up the steep hill.

Drove along the north coast and through various mountains, stopped at Number One Beach, where Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. Yes, another world. An abundance of nature - beautiful and remote.